Aussie Roadtrip: Metung

Twofold Bay on my birthday!
Back in Spain, I listened to a remarkable podcast of Conversations with Richard Fidler where he interviewed Danielle Clode.  It was a story about a pod of killer whales who worked with men to hunt Humpback Whales.  Apparently orcas all specialise in a type of hunting, based on where they live and what they eat, and they teach their young and pass the techniques on.  This particular pod, that hung out near the entrance of Twofold Bay in southern NSW developed a hankering for humpback whales tongues and lips.  A hankering that might have been encouraged by the local Aboriginal population, who were some of the best hunters on the white men's whaling ships and had a relationship with the killer whales long before white fellas showed up. 

I almost wet myself when I realised that our roadtrip could actually take us through Twofold Bay.  What was even more exciting was that it would be on the day of my 32nd birthday.  I think the excitement is basically written on my face in the photo below. 

Birthday boy at Twofold Bay

Eden is not far from Merimbula, so we had a slow start, a long coffee at Sprout cafe (5 stars!) and a beach trip to play with my birthday beachball before we went to see and learn more of the story at the Eden Killer Whale Museum which doesn't open until 11.15 on a Sunday.  The museum shares a lot about whaling and the good ol' times when Old Tom and his pod worked together with human whalers, but also does a bit to remind us how much damage humans have done to worldwide whale populations.  The museum continues downstairs with much more of Eden's history, besides fishing at whaling,  Certainly worth a visit on anyone's itinerary.

Beach balls and wind are not friends

Bushranger rating = getting there

Old Tom - A killer whale who died of old age in 1930

A great poem on display at the Eden Killer Whale Museum

Eden Killer Whale Museum

The last stop of this amazing trip before heading home was relaxed Metung. Just a smidge closer to home than Lake's Entrance, we took it easy here.  We had to take it easy as one of us is getting on in years.  We had a lovely (birthday) dinner at the local bistro with a view over the lake and were treated to a remarkable sunset visible on our way home.  

Birthday sunset from Metung - photo does not capture its vibrancy

While we were tempted to get out on the water either in a kayak or on a local cruise, in the end we opted to cycle about, enjoying the sun with our feet on dry land.  With all the driving, it was great to have a day to relax and enjoy the atmosphere and location of our remarkable AirBNB accommodation.

Ingrid's AirBNB view

A beautiful last day of Spring

Just one of the boats around Metung

Pelicans everywhere

Grumblepot

Lifeguards

We were treated to a second sunset to start Summer

Sunset by the jetty

Sunset by the jetty 2

On our route home, we made an early stop at Bairnsdale which plays home to a little museum called Krowathunkooloong - The Keeping Place.  Their exhibition allows visitors to learn about the ancient Gunai people of the Gippsland Lakes through stories, articles, weapons, arts and crafts.  I recommend visiting if you are in the area, although it is often not recognised nearly as much as it should be, Australia's history is a lot older than just what happened after white settlement.

We punctuated the drive with a chilly visit to Golden Beach, just one spot along the amazing 90 Mile Beach stretch.  But the wind was cold and the water uninviting so we quickfooted along to Moe for a break to sit and reflect on what an incredible year this has been.  What we have done, what has happened, what we have learned and who we have met.  An opportunity that cannot be beaten.

World travellers come home

Which way from Golden Beach?

Australia

Reflections - we're home!

Aussie Roadtrip: Merimbula

A very early start to catch sunrise meant we were on the road ahead of a lot of the other traffic. Drivers were blinking their car headlights left, right and centre as we headed out to the highway and I assumed a police car detecting speed would be round the bend. Slowing right down turned out to be excellent timing as I avoided a small kanga positioned in the centre of my lane. (So far the only incident has involved a suicidal kookaburra.) Around the next bend there had been a nasty head on collision with police and fireys in attendance. Turning around Percy, we needed to take another route to the highway. 

With such an early start, it was easy work to get to Nooroomba (an Aboriginal word for "blue water").  Allegedly due to a spelling mistake on the part of the postmaster, its name changed to Narooma. 

Beautiful Narooma

Violent pelicans in a feeding frenzy

What bird is this?

It seems that early attempts to set this up as a busy port failed, mainly on account of the fact that it seems a pretty lousy spot for a port.  It seems like ships had to intentionally beach themselves on the bar, then wait for a wave to bring them over the top and make a sharp left turn.  Various attempts at creating a breakwater seem to have had little effect on making it a safer place to access, and I think people may have given up by the early 20th century.  Nevertheless many have recognised it as a beautiful place to visit, and regular tourism seems to have been a feature since the 30's. 

This breakwater makes it "safer?"

We discovered that the couple behind Streets ice-creams retired to this community and put a lot of effort into community projects.  Kat couldn't help but get into a giant paddle pop they had left just lying there.  

Paddle Pops!

Our plan to catch some waves was thwarted by numerous nasty looking bluebottles, and we opted to briefly read in the sun before kicking on.  

No swimming - bluebottles everywhere!

What trip of these parts would be complete without stopping at Bega to try out all of the cheeses with which we are already very familiar?  The Bega experience was worth the stop, not just for the cheese, but running through their museum and arts and crafts from the region upstairs.  The main takeaway, in case anyone cares to travel so far for petrol, is that the local businesses seem to have lost all sense in a race to the bottom on prices.  For the first time in many years, you could get petrol for less than a dollar a litre!  For those without a Coles voucher, you had to pay a measly $1.03/L!!!   The teller obviously had many people commenting on it to him throughout his day, and was not at all interested in my enthusiasm.  The rule of our roadtrip has been if we see it for less than $1.20/L, we stop.

Crazy competition!

Bega Cheese Museum

The views from our temporary home at Merimbula were magnificent.  It would have been a great spot to whale-watch if we were there in the right season.  It seems that very few people camp anymore, and less care to camp or caravan in an unpowered site, so we had the run of the unpowered section of the park effectively to ourselves, it was a beautiful space.

TENT PHOTO! - Note my beard is now visible in shadow

Sun set near our Merimbula campsite

Aussie Roadtrip: Jervis Bay and Australia's smallest territory

After stopping off for coffees at Café Llewellyn, which had been taken over and renamed Drift, we left Newcastle. Phone kerfuffle’s have followed us since we left Melbourne and today reached an all time high. For a large part of the trip we have had 4 phones and 2 sims, with my sim fitting in the two worst phones. My iPhone, having survived the world, began to only function after a burst in the fridge. Occasionally holding it in front of the car air conditioner would help. After many complicated swapping of SIMs and incompatibility problems all up the east coast, a frustrated person (okay it was me) may have put a SIM card in a micro SD slot. That is, jammed it in the slot where it doesn’t belong. This meant a rather longer than intended stop in a Wollongong shopping centre for repairs. To further the pain of the day, I bent my earring whilst removing a SIM card from the iPhone and later accidentally threw both SIM card and earrings into a bin at a lighthouse stop. DOLPHIN SANDS ROAD!!!

In my defence, I had rather a tumultuous morning of illness that involved Rob driving frantically in circles looking for a bathroom. I then had to break up a friendly gang of bikies to get to the toilet. 

In good news, I recovered my plastic pocket containing earring and SIM card from the bin before we left the Kiama Blowhole. (Unfortunately I think the bus driver parked next to the bin probably thinks I am a drug runner.) I also began to feel better late afternoon. 

Should you be interested, the Kiama Blowhole is an interesting site to visit (best done at high tide if you can manage it, although it still makes impressive sounds at low tide) that was first documented by Europeans in the late 18^th century.  It’s called a blowhole because it does a pretty neat impression of a whale when conditions are right.  The site is even topped with a chronologically impaired lighthouse.

Kiama Blowhole

Kiama Lighthouse (celebrating 100 years of the ANZAC)

Despite our best efforts, we made it to the Jervis Bay Caravan Park, which was a lovely spot almost at the mouth of Currambene Creek. Features include a solar heated spa, a pool with a slippery slide large enough for big kids (these two included), boatramp, jacarandas, bottle brushes, ducks, Charlie the dancing corella, king parrots, and a close and terrifyingly loud possum and away from any built up towns.  A highly rateable place to camp or stay although we would like to pose an open question to Australia; when, how and why did it become ‘normal’ to turn caravans into permanent fixtures with decks and other attachments?

TENT PHOTO!

Charlie the Corella

A day to explore Jervis Bay (while being observed by a Royal Australian Navy helicopter) introduced us to many marvels of the area.  Those marvels being beautiful white sands, clear turquoise waters, talkative black cockatoos, occasional cyclonic winds, flying sticks, leaping dry leaves and tremendous heat.  

Black cockatoo

Staying cool on a roasting hot day

Unfortunately the latter elements combined to create that horrifying element of the Australian landscape; an out of control bushfire we could see burning on the far side of the bay near the cleverly named Point Perpendicular.  At one point the only clear landmark to be made out through the smoke was the lighthouse standing tall atop the rocks.  Since leaving Jervis we found out that a live mortar fire exercise from the ADF Beecroft Weapons Range (where a friend may or may not have been training) went on at the time of the fire causing much speculation. Firefighters contained the blaze just 700 metres from homes in nearby Currarong.

Beautiful Jervis Bay waters near Huskisson

Jervis Bay with the bushfire plume in the distance

Lighthouse through the bushfire haze (and you can see why it is called Point Perpendicular)

It was scorching on Huskisson Beach mid-morning. We interchanged 10 minutes reading with 5 minutes swimming and kept up the routine until the sun got far too hot. Taking refuge at café in town for some postcard writing, we enjoyed some cool drinks and avoided the most harmful rays of the day. By the time we had taken a short wander around town, driven towards Hyam’s Beach and lunched at a nearby picnic table, the afternoon sun was not as severe. Chinaman’s Beach (name unexplained on the net) was beautiful but the wind/sand combination pierced our skin and we relocated to our intended destination, the somewhat more sheltered Hyam’s Beach. The shores reputedly have some of the whitest sand in the world. Needless to say we resumed our swim/reading routine from the morning, this time with a tennis ball to keep us distracted from the now increasingly cool waters.

Hyam's Beach

Rob goes exploring (bushfire smoke on the right) - Chinaman's Beach

Rob sitting amongst the rocks - Chinaman's Beach

Sunrise from our campsite

Ducks at sunrise

Jervis Bay is certainly a lovely area and before I knew more about the history of our country I could speculate as to why the ACT snatched part of it up. Turns out that part of Jervis Bay was surrendered by NSW in 1915 to provide Canberra with a seaport. I originally thought the whole area was part of the ACT, but in fact the Jervis Bay Territory owned by the Commonwealth included the southern settlements of Greenpatch, Hyams Beach and Bowen Island. The northern part of the bay is part of NSW. Therefore we were actually hopping between NSW and ACT for the day. Nice to know!

Aussie Roadtrip: Newcastle

Before a brief overnighter in Newcastle we stopped in a few places on the road. Still in Port Macquarie we admired Lighthouse Beach then later climbed up to a lookout at Cape Hawke in Booti Booti National Park. Both provided some special views but my time at Cape Hawke was tainted by mozzie attacks. Mind you, the mozzies have, as usual, been eating me alive in most places! A real highlight was visiting Green Cathedral, also in Booti Booti. Starkly different from the European churches we have been poking our heads into, this waterfront spiritual place was open aired and amongst palm trees. I even spotted a lizard next to the pews.

As per the sign!

From Cape Hawke Lookout

Green Cathedral situated on the banks of Wallis Lake

Peace post near Green Cathedral

Knew I was watching 

One of the less remarkable stops: petrol purchase at “The Rock”, a horrible looking attempt to cash in on Uluru’s appearance.

Eye sore: one of the worst "big things" (smaller than Uluru!)

Our final stop before making it to Newcastle was a beachy one. After having previously seen it from Gan Gan lookout on the way up the coast, we couldn’t resist stopping at One Mile beach. Port Stephens really is a fantastic area.

One Mile beach

Well aware we didn’t have very long to check out Newcastle, we aimed to visit the famous Bogey Hole and Bar Beach. Built in around 1820 using convict labour for a Major’s personal bathing purposes, the hole cut into the rocks is now a popular swimming hole. Only snag was we got there at high tide which would have made it a tremendously dangerous swim. Added to that, recent rock-fall meant the area was deemed unsafe and closed for three days. I have since read it isn't likely to be open until next year. It was still marvellous to see the waves crashing into the bath and imagine the Major hanging out there back in the day.

Waves crashing into Bogey Hole

Access to a raging Bogey Hole

View of the Bogey Hole from afar 

Before heading to Bar Beach we walked across the WWI Memorial Walk, opened in April 2015. As well as honouring those involved in the war in various ways, the walk provides great views to the ocean, the town parks and the harbours. Newcastle is much prettier than the outdated images Rob and I held in our heads! We enjoyed the rest of the day at Bar Beach. A nice looking beach but the combination of crazy waves and hidden rocks didn't tempt us in too far.

WWI Memorial Walk

Waves and sunshine at Bar Beach