Zurich and Lucerne

After hopping off the Bernina Express in Chur, still in awe, we looked for our fourth train of the day to Zurich. Initially we were spoilt with another scenic journey but before long tunnels and the departure of the sun limited our view. We set to some blogging and soon found ourselves in Zurich.

We were met at the platform by Laurel, Rob’s friend and our amazing host. It was great to hear an Australian accent (though our neighbours on the Bernina Express were from Melbourne!) and a friendly face. Laurel has called Zurich home for a decade and gave us a wealth of information on the city, what it is like living there and on the international school scene. We were also extremely lucky to be shown around Lucerne.

Rob & Laurel

Lucerne

In Lucerne we climbed up the battlements and the walls and went up the clock tower that was there, giving us a nice view of the city on one side, and, strangely, an athletics track on the other. Laurel took us to great lunch where Rob ordered the opposite of what he said he wanted! We were entertained by an Italian lady that tried to sit everywhere except where she was supposed to. Unfortunately the famous Chapel bridge of Lucerne was under repair so we couldn’t see its well-known paintings that depict Swiss life in the 12^th century and tell the history of the city and the story of William Tell. It was the oldest wooden bridge of Europe but was burned down in a 1993 fire and was then rebuilt. We loved the murals on many of the building in Lucerne.

Clock tower

Creepy man with a camera lurking behind a tree...

Inner workings of the clock and if you look closely you can see Ghost Rob

Lucerne city wall

Lunch venue and an amazing family tree

Public murals

Public murals

Chapel Bridge from afar

We missed this one on the way in!

You have to look UP in Lucerne

Travelling to and from Lucerne, Laurel took us to her favourite viewpoints, including a church with a bright pink interior. Unfortunately access to the church was blocked by one of the many cycling events that are following us around the world! It was lovely to see the colourful Autumn leaves as we drove between towns.

Autumn is upon us!

Zurich

I hadn’t realised that Zurich is a relatively small city with only around 400 thousand people in the city proper. The villages or suburbs of Zurich are spread out around the lake. It doesn’t feel like you are in the biggest city of a country, even though you are. The quaint little villages and the beautiful lake with views of the alps are what I think makes Zurich special.

Views across Zurich lake (unfortunately alp visibility is low in this shot)

On our walking tour of Zurich, our guide told us that though Berne is the government headquarters of Switzerland, it is not the capital. In fact, Switzerland is a confederation of Cantons without an official capital. In roman times Zurich was a tolling station along the Linmat river. One of the most historic parts of Zurich is Linderhoff, a central hill and viewpoint over the river and city and at one time a Roman fort. Whilst on the hill the guide told us an interesting story about Zurich in the 15^th century. There were no men left in the city as they were off fighting battles. With an army converging on the city, some women decided to dress in men’s battle gear and stand on the Linderhoff so approaching armies saw the town was protected and left without a fight.  This is supposedly the origin of the female national personification Helvetia, the woman in flowing robes bearing a spear.  Although, when we researched it, we couldn't find anything about this myth.

Helvetia

View from Linderhoff

View of Grossmünster from Linderhoff

A random fact that I learnt on the tour: Helvetica font was invented in Zurich. Maybe I should change the font of this post in honour of this discovery! (Changed!)

The walking tour took us by a number of churches and recommended eateries. One of the churches, St Peter’s, has the largest clock face in Europe. Another, Fraumünster, is an old gothic church with beautiful and unique window paintings by Marc Chagal. We went up the  Grossmünster ('great minister'), a Romanesque-style church, for some lovely views of the city and took the guide up on a recommended café. Despite being sick I could not resist the urge for a hot chocolate, or trying some new Lindt chocolate varieties. I was in Switzerland after all!

Fraumünster

Autumn at Linderhoff

Largest clockface in the world

Grossmünster

View from Grossmünster 

View from Grossmünster

Faces in-between clock faces

Traditional house around Zürich lake

Aside from exploring Zurich and its surrounds, the best part about our time with Laurel was chatting and watching no less than the three movies! The Zurich film festival was actually on whilst we were there but we opted for the comforts of Laurel’s home. Besides, what better place for a viewing of Chocolat than the neighbourhood of the Lindt factory? (Well, except maybe a small village in France!)

Provision of chocolate samples:
That's when good neighbours become good friends!