Tuesday 14 July 2015

Ring of Kerry - Ireland Roadtrip Part 4

Goodbye County Cork
After leaving Kinsale we made our way to Cork market for breakfast and then to the Old City Gaol. Thus we had soon had our modern, cosy breakfast and our road trip holiday to compare with the living standard of prisoners during famine times in Ireland. We were told sometimes it was better to be in prison; more a reflection on living on the streets in these times than the quality of life in gaol. Some of the stories were really horrific.

A guard at the gaol

Hello Ring of Kerry
From our base in Killarney we did a day trip around the Ring of Kerry, a circular route in County Kerry, Southwestern Ireland . I can see why the route has become so famous and we found it very hard to decide where to stop. It really has it all: churches, monastic settlements  lighthouses, views, cliffs, waterfalls, hikes, beaches and for us: four seasons in a day! We did the route anti-clockwise (at least at the start!) and we weren't on the road long before we made our way down narrow, windy roads to the coast.

First stop on the Ring of Kerry

Place of the craggy rock
Following along the ring, we soon found ourselves at an ancient monastic colony Ballinskelligs (Baile en Scheilg - gaelic for "Place of the craggy rock"). The Irish do have sensible names for places. What seems less sensible, or in fact somewhat crazy, is to have chosen to set up a monastery on an outcrop of rock on the Atlantic Ocean. I suppose at the time, it made sense as a place to find solitude and reflection, but it was hardly a place I would choose to weather a storm! 

Ballinskelligs Priory
Incredibly still standing
Kerry Cliffs at Portmagee
Still in awe of the humans that lived before us, we got back into our heated car and drove towards Portmagee. Paying an entrance fee, we walks to the top of the cliffs and found ourselves 300 metres above the Atlantic. We had fairly clear view of the immediate vicinity and that was certainly spectacular!

Kerry Cliffs at Portmagee

Kerry Cliffs
Enjoying the views!
Captivated by Kerry's cliffs
Go west!
Following on from Portmagee we headed across the bridge to Valentia island. One of the island's big claims to fame is that it was the eastern terminus of the first transatlantic telegraph cable. As the weather started to shift, we drove around to see the lighthouse on the island. We did not go in but where interested to read on the sign outside that the most westerly settled community in Europe is located there.

Cromwell Point Lighthouse: the weather is turning!
With the weather taking a real turn for the worse we braved on to a foggy viewpoint:

Foggy town!
Fog can be beautiful
Staigue Fort 
Our next stop was quite out of the way down a long, windy, crazy road in the rain (I think Mum was driving- thanks Mum!) but I am glad we went. Staigue fort, according to the sign out the front, was build in the early centuries AD before Christianity came to Ireland! It is partially ruined but there is enough left that you can see it must have been an amazing building of its time. It was built entirely without mortar and encloses an areas 30 metres in diameter! It is thought likely that the fort was a chieftan's home and that the area contained by the walls would originally have had houses, out-building and other temporary structures. We all had a go at climbing the steep steps that criss-cross on the interior of the walls. 




The fort wall is up to 6 metres high



After the fort we pushed on through the dreary weather. It was a bit disappointing to have so much fog but the scenery we could see was beautiful. 

Dunloe's Gap
The next day we went out early to Dunloe's Gap, a pass between Killarney and Kenmare. We had been advised to head out early otherwise the horse and cart drivers, who make their bread taking tourists through here, tend to get a bit narky. It was still a bit overcast so we did not see it at its postcard best but I think the clouds made it somewhat majestic. Additionally, we were one of only a few cars on the road due to the early hour. 


Augher Lake at the Gap of Dunloe

Dunloe's Gap friend 
Somewhat obscured view near Dunloe's Gap

Torc Waterfall
We then ventured into Killarney National Park to see Torc Waterfall. It was a short walk to the waterfall and lovely to be amongst so many shades of green. Less pleasant was seeing another tourist leaving a take-away coffee cup in a tree so she could pose for a photo. Lucky she had us to clean up after her. 




Muckross Friary  
Nearby Muckross Friary was fascinating to explore. The friary no longer has a roof and a brilliant large yew tree has grown in and out of the central courtyard. Yew trees are common in old cemeteries and monastic sites in Ireland but I doubt there are many as grand as this one.


Yew tree in the courtyard of Muckross Friary
Muckross Friary
Ross Castle
Ross Castle, a 15th century tower house, within Killarney National Park, was our last stop for the day. We were content to walk around the outside part of the castle rather than take a tour. The castle is located on the edge of a lough and its gardens are fairly nice to walk around. 

Ross Castle from the shelter of a tree

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