Showing posts with label Edo_period. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Edo_period. Show all posts

Monday, 11 May 2015

Takayama

Japan had so many highlights but if I had to pick just one, it would be Kamikochi. If I had to pick a second, it would be Takayama. (Not just because of our great stay in a ryokan!)

Though Takayama was very touristy, it was one of those small towns that wore it well. It was an enjoyable place to walk around and possibly the highest on my list of places in the world where I have actually enjoyed souvenir/gift shops. (And not just because you could sample all the local foods before buying!) The Japanese know how to do gift giving.

The main draw of Takayama to me is the fact that it has retained many of its traditional elements and is surrounded by beautiful mountains. Due to its isolation and relatively remote location in the Japanese Alps it has built its own unique culture over 300-odd years. We walked down historic streets with houses and building dating back from the Edo period when the city blossomed as a town of merchants. We visited some of the open houses that show how the merchants used to live. Now there are also inviting coffee houses, breweries, shops and sake breweries.


Enjoying a stroll in historic Takayama
Lovely Takayama street (even lovelier in the peace of the late afternoon!)
Takayama is known for its sake which was the perfect excuse for us to sample some at a great restaurant we happened upon. (It turned out to be number one on Trip Advisor for Takyama- details below.) We also thoroughly enjoyed the sake tour we took in town that also taught us about local culture, calligraphy and gift wrapping. Sake breweries in Takayama have a sugidama (ball made of cedar branches) out the front. They put it up at the start of the brewing season and the changing colour of the branches indicates to customers the stage of maturity of the sake.


Sake brewery with brown sugidama hanging out the front

Learning to wrap sake/wine/beer gifts
During our stay we also visited some shrines and temples on the Higashiyama Walking Course. There are some beautiful gardens dotted throughout the area and we enjoyed the sights on the walk.


A sight on our walk around the temples and shrines
Samurai armour on display outside 
the Hida Archaeology Museum
Zitch dogs in a pram in Japan!





















Tips for Takayama:
Sake tour: Discover the Sake by Satoyama Experience

Great restaurant: Heianraku (small so book ahead) - they cater for vegetarians

Eat Hida beef, especially worth looking out for the guys below:

Hida beef buns: delicious!

Saturday, 9 May 2015

Relaxation and regeneration at a ryokan

Arriving in Takayama we were both excited and a bit nervous about our first foray into Japanese bathing. We had read up on etiquette for the unique experience (for example see this tourism bureau site) and felt at least somewhat prepared to bathe naked with strangers! 

A number of friends recommend we visit a ryokan during our stay in Japan both for the bathing, meals and service. In fact, it made it into our list of travel dreams. A ryokan is a traditional style of accommodation that originates from the Edo period- a time of peace that meant travel was safe. A ryokan usually makes use of Japan's geothermal energy by way of an onsen (hot spring).

We chose Oyada Yamakyu which came highly recommended by our friends, Scott and Bianca. After hearing their descriptions, I was especially keen to try some of the local food.

A complimentary ryokan shuttle from the train station brought us up the hill to Oyada Yamakyu where we were shown to our room for a tea. After enjoying our tea and small snack, I wanted to get into my yukata and then the baths as soon as possible. 

Despite our pre-reading efforts I still was not one hundred per cent sure on the procedure. I was however certain that I would not try and balance my towel on my head (the traditional way) because I would likely drop it in the water. This would make it unclean and is definitely frowned upon. Rob and I went our separate ways, wishing each other an enjoyable bath! 

In our gear
It is important to shower before entering the water and before getting there I was a bit unclear on where the showers were located in relation to the baths. Luckily everything was very self-explanatory when I got there. The first area, a changing room, was well equipped with an amusing cartoon explaining the "do's and don't's". Finally mustering up the courage to take off my yakuta, I stepped into the shower and bathing area to find...absolutely noone! 


Not the actual cartoon from the ryokan but the general idea
Source: Travel Japan

Rob and I found each of our three baths a very peaceful and relaxing experience. Possibly me more than him because I always seemed to get the baths to myself! Although, it must be pointed out that it was Rob that apparently had an uncontrollable urge to sleep after his first bath. It wasn't long before he was knocked out on the tatami mats!
Hard work those baths
Both the men's bathing space and the women's had a large indoor bath and a smaller outdoor tub. As each space was different from the other, they swapped the men's and women's and midnight so you could experience both. The baths were lovely but too hot to last in there very long. 


Post-nap walk to the ryokan's garden in our outdoor coats
A highlight of our stay, as promised, was the amazing food. I enjoyed trying so many different foods and was surprised that I liked almost everything I was given. Rob did well to sample things he perhaps would not usually even look at. We were a bit slack with the photos but I did capture Rob enjoying dinner mid-meal at dinner and breakfast. The sake was also fantastic.


Huge variety at our ryokan dinner
Breakfast times
The Japanese are exceptional at utilising small spaces both efficiently and in an aesthetically pleasing manner! It is not often I rave about bathroom doors (and toilets for that matter!) but this was something special. We are really enjoying the often simplistic but beautiful designs inside Japanese rooms. Not long after dinner our "tea room" was converted into our bedroom, all ready for us after our second bath for the day. 

Tatami mats are our new best friends
The ryokan had great little touches like this laptop booth!
We had a great stay at Oyada Yamakyu and found it excellent value. It was certainly a unique and relaxing experience that left us feeling like the cleanest we had ever been!