Aboard the Bernina Express!

We are BLOWN AWAY after travelling on the Bernina Express from Tirano, northern Italy to Chur, eastern Switzerland. On the journey you are immediately amongst beauty, surrounded by ice capped mountains, turquoise lakes, quaint villages and a fantastic glass roof to view it all through. (The roof is not entirely glass, much to the disappointment of the young girls in our carriage, “Dad, where’s the glass roof? You said it was glass!”) The train is a narrow gauge train run by the Rhätische Bahn.

Excited to board the Bernina!

On-board with the view-enabling windows

It was easily the most scenic train trip I have ever done. The journey had been a travel dream of mine since before my first trip to Europe in 2010. At that time, I had decided to skip Switzerland to concentrate on slower travel through France, Italy and Spain. It was well worth the wait and something I would highly recommend.

Along the way, Rob and I were entranced by the spectacular scenes outside our window as we rapidly climbed out of the valley near Tirano and up the steep track (at a rate of up to 70 metres per mile). We marveled at how clever it was to use the twists and turns to ascend the mountains (see the Brusio Spiral here). The railways architectural and civil engineering achievements are actually what made it find a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list. At one point early on in the trip we even “became a tram.” Across the route there were several tunnels and bridges (one is the longest in Europe.) We also went past a glacier, some castles, villages, a hydroelectric power plant and the highest airport in Europe! It was a beautiful area and one that you would be lovely to see via hiking, mountain biking, cycling or driving. Travelling by train was a brilliant way to experience it.

Rob’s favourite part of 122km journey was the steep ascent at the beginning. Even though we had some idea of the route we were still surprised as we watched the front of the train go up and up and up – it felt like a plane taking off! Not long after leaving Tirano, we encountered the Kreisviadukt Brusio, an amazing construction that sees the train spiral around on a 360 degree curve, allowing a rapid climb within very little space. During this part it was hard to know which way to look! 



Perhaps even harder was when we got closer to the highest point of the journey, Ospizio Bernina at 2253 metres above sea level. This was my favourite part. The sun was shining on the beautiful mountains and the contrasting mix of colours from the pine trees, rocks, grass and snow was stunning. Some people might prefer the journey in winter to see more snow, and no doubt it would be beautiful, but I rather liked the view with a little snow and lots of other colours.

Travelling through Alp Grüm our surrounds included Palü glacier and lake Palü and we had views of the Italian alps. Once at the highest altitude station on the railway network, Ospizio Bernina, we had crossed from Italian speaking areas in Italy and Switzerland into the Engadin region where Romansh and  German is spoken. From Ospizio Bernina you can see two neighbouring pools of water, one draining to the Adriatic Sea (Lago Blanco) and the other to the Black Sea (Leg Naire). The colour of the water in each was markedly different which was a strange sight.  Apparently we owe that difference to the fact that Lago Blanco is filled with glacial melt from Cambrena Glacier and Leg Naire is a peaty depression which collects murky brown water.

As well as a fantastically scenic ride, I can only imagine what this train route did for small villages once isolated by the Alps. It made me think about Mongolia and how influential further transport development could be for the country. 

Tips:

• If you can, INCLUDE THIS TRIP IN YOUR LIFE!
• Pack some snacks. There is not much choice on board. (No ice creams for the kids in our carriage as promised.)
• There are some spots where you can take photos without a window in the way, but you’ll have to stand up and might not be worth just enjoying the view.
• The Man at Seat 61 provides some great information. Including a cheaper means of riding on the Bernina. We did this and despite a bit of confusion in Tirano, it worked a treat.

Stunning Lago Blanco

Our neighbour enjoying the view over Lago Blanco

What a journey!

Look out the window!

Beautiful 

Going past Leg Naire

A barren landscape on part of the journey

A great place to stop apparently!

Oh Japan!

If we have talked to you recently you have probably heard us rave about Japan in one form or another.* Very early on in our time there we established a saying that was repeated several times a day. Mainly it is to do with how convenient, hospitable and accessible Japan is to the tourist. Thought this post will probably just turn into a "things we loved about Japan" and really, if you've been there, who can blame us?

So here goes...

Greeted at airport by offer of free wifi access at Japan hotspots "Oh Japan!"

The seemingly unfiltered Internet^: "Oh Japan!"

(Polite) signs with enough English for you to know that you are not in the wrong place "Oh Japan!"

Communication cards and rest areas "Oh Japan!"

Taxis with doors that open automatically. (We saw one lady get out in the rain and it certainly makes opening an umbrella whilst stepping out a smoother process.) "Oh Japan!"

Dog leash place at convenience stores "Oh Japan!"

Dog and cat cafes "Oh Japan!"
(even though the dog cafe was shut...shh)

Clever and space efficient bike racks "Oh Japan!"

Sake: just its presence "Oh Japan!"

Yakitori "Oh Japan!"

Vending machines (with HOT coffee) "Oh Japan!"

Toilets made exciting "Oh Japan!"

Stunning gardens "Oh Japan!"

Food displays "Oh Japan!"

Hidden alleyways and alluring restaurants "Oh Japan!"

Bento boxes and other great value, tasty food at convenience stores "Oh Japan!"

Incredibly convenient and fast train networks that are cleaned with pride "Oh Japan!" 

I do have to say that there was one instance that went perhaps a bit to far for me. It got a different kind of "Oh Japan!" In H&M in Kyoto I was astonished that they vacuum each change room between customers!

So, have we sold Japan to you yet?** 

To be honest this is just a snapshot of our experience in Japan. The incredible hospitality that we experience is hard to encapsulate in one post. (Even the time in Kanazawa when a lady opened a whole cafe just for us to have dinner does not paint enough of a picture.) 

And, of course, no country is all peaches and cream...but that's not what this post is about! 

* Apologies to our China fairy if we said this a few too many times in Beijing! 
^ Consider the Matrix though, how would you know????
** Japan's tourism board did not get to us in case you are wondering.

Kamikochi (Paradise)

Kamikochi
From Takayama we took a day trip Kamikochi to do some walks. 

Kamikochi is a valley within the Hida Mountains range in Nagano Prefecture and part of the Chubu Sangaku National Park. It is sometimes compared with Yosemite Valley, California. The mountains bordering Kamikochi reach 3,190 metres and include Mount Yake, an active volcano. Lake Taisho was formed by the Mount Yake eruption of 1915.

The stunning landscapes that greeted us were simply spectacular and not what I would necessarily have pictured to find in Japan. (Just from simply not knowing enough about Japan!) The Azusa river has beautiful clear, sparkly water and there are breathtaking views throughout the valley. Hopefully our photos capture even a tenth of its beauty.

The area was previously used for logging until the mid-19^th century. It is now heavily protected. Private vehicles have been restricted from entering the park and there is only modest development within it. (The public transport in is also on the pricey side.) These factors combine to make for some very peaceful walking. The facilities that are present are of a high quality and it is a nice atmosphere. It would be great to come back and do some mountain hiking and perhaps camp for a few nights. 

Tips for Kamikochi:

Website: www.kamikochi.org - really good English resources on how to get there

Opening season: Mid/late April to November 15

Climbing peaks: mid June and mid September

Getting there: 4900JPY return bus from Takayama (transferring at Hirayuno-Mori), takes about 1h45m.

Walking around

There is a park visitor centre with maps to purchase and information. Simple map below.

Recommend including Taisho Pond in your walk (either getting off the bus there early or walking there). The last bus left from Kamikochi bus terminal at 17.00 when we were there and went past Taisho Pond approximately 17:10. 

Suggestion to go to Hirayuno-Mori Hot Springs (we didn't but looked great)
Open 10am-9pm 500JPY bathing fee

General map of the park