Aboard the Bernina Express!

We are BLOWN AWAY after travelling on the Bernina Express from Tirano, northern Italy to Chur, eastern Switzerland. On the journey you are immediately amongst beauty, surrounded by ice capped mountains, turquoise lakes, quaint villages and a fantastic glass roof to view it all through. (The roof is not entirely glass, much to the disappointment of the young girls in our carriage, “Dad, where’s the glass roof? You said it was glass!”) The train is a narrow gauge train run by the Rhätische Bahn.

Excited to board the Bernina!

On-board with the view-enabling windows

It was easily the most scenic train trip I have ever done. The journey had been a travel dream of mine since before my first trip to Europe in 2010. At that time, I had decided to skip Switzerland to concentrate on slower travel through France, Italy and Spain. It was well worth the wait and something I would highly recommend.

Along the way, Rob and I were entranced by the spectacular scenes outside our window as we rapidly climbed out of the valley near Tirano and up the steep track (at a rate of up to 70 metres per mile). We marveled at how clever it was to use the twists and turns to ascend the mountains (see the Brusio Spiral here). The railways architectural and civil engineering achievements are actually what made it find a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list. At one point early on in the trip we even “became a tram.” Across the route there were several tunnels and bridges (one is the longest in Europe.) We also went past a glacier, some castles, villages, a hydroelectric power plant and the highest airport in Europe! It was a beautiful area and one that you would be lovely to see via hiking, mountain biking, cycling or driving. Travelling by train was a brilliant way to experience it.

Rob’s favourite part of 122km journey was the steep ascent at the beginning. Even though we had some idea of the route we were still surprised as we watched the front of the train go up and up and up – it felt like a plane taking off! Not long after leaving Tirano, we encountered the Kreisviadukt Brusio, an amazing construction that sees the train spiral around on a 360 degree curve, allowing a rapid climb within very little space. During this part it was hard to know which way to look! 



Perhaps even harder was when we got closer to the highest point of the journey, Ospizio Bernina at 2253 metres above sea level. This was my favourite part. The sun was shining on the beautiful mountains and the contrasting mix of colours from the pine trees, rocks, grass and snow was stunning. Some people might prefer the journey in winter to see more snow, and no doubt it would be beautiful, but I rather liked the view with a little snow and lots of other colours.

Travelling through Alp Grüm our surrounds included Palü glacier and lake Palü and we had views of the Italian alps. Once at the highest altitude station on the railway network, Ospizio Bernina, we had crossed from Italian speaking areas in Italy and Switzerland into the Engadin region where Romansh and  German is spoken. From Ospizio Bernina you can see two neighbouring pools of water, one draining to the Adriatic Sea (Lago Blanco) and the other to the Black Sea (Leg Naire). The colour of the water in each was markedly different which was a strange sight.  Apparently we owe that difference to the fact that Lago Blanco is filled with glacial melt from Cambrena Glacier and Leg Naire is a peaty depression which collects murky brown water.

As well as a fantastically scenic ride, I can only imagine what this train route did for small villages once isolated by the Alps. It made me think about Mongolia and how influential further transport development could be for the country. 

Tips:

• If you can, INCLUDE THIS TRIP IN YOUR LIFE!
• Pack some snacks. There is not much choice on board. (No ice creams for the kids in our carriage as promised.)
• There are some spots where you can take photos without a window in the way, but you’ll have to stand up and might not be worth just enjoying the view.
• The Man at Seat 61 provides some great information. Including a cheaper means of riding on the Bernina. We did this and despite a bit of confusion in Tirano, it worked a treat.

Stunning Lago Blanco

Our neighbour enjoying the view over Lago Blanco

What a journey!

Look out the window!

Beautiful 

Going past Leg Naire

A barren landscape on part of the journey

A great place to stop apparently!

Mongolian Tour: Gobi and Sub-Gobi Desert PART 3

The red cliffs of Bayanzag and a sandstorm hits

Mongolia has been and is a paradise for both archaeologists and palaeontologists. We were almost blown off some startlingly red cliffs (Bayanzag) on a very windy day. Many dinosaur skeletons and eggs were found there but we just tried to stay upright and enjoy the view. 

Bayanzag

Bayanzag

Bayanzag

After returning to the van and continuing on our way, we encountered a lonely outpost in the middle of the desert. The "town hall" is used as a meeting place for locals and sometimes tour guides prepare meals here!

The "town hall" of the area

Not long after spotting the town hall we encountered a sand storm. We already knew Batar was an excellent driver by this point, but any lingering doubts would have been quelled when he got us through the storm in almost zero visibility. 

 THE SANDSTORM HITS

The sandstorm approaches

The sandstorm arrives

Navigating the sandstorm

"Roads" become rivers

When we arrived at our accommodation for the night we were keen to celebrate our survival, not to mention Tasha's birthday. 

Monastry ruins and runaway horses

In the middle Gobi we visited the Ongi monastery ruins. We were introduced to the area by a man whose brother was a lama at the monastery. He told us about how monks were either murdered or forced into labor. Seeing a place that has been devastated by a regime imposing itself on a culture, as it has here, is always heartbreaking. This would have been an even more majestic place in its prime. The scenery in the area was again lovely, the environment in Mongolia does have the tendency to turn you into a broken record in this respect.

View from the Ongi monastery 

Ruins of the Ongi monastery

Some of the most enjoyable lunches were prepared roadside by Bimba. This one occurring without even having to pull off the road!

Roadside lunch

A brief toilet break (Mongolian wild style – use your jacket if you need privacy) gave us the first impression of a change in climate. Horses abounded that day and soon we would reach the ancient capital of Karakorum.

Running horses

Horsies on the loose

Best clouds in the world

The ancient capital

The centre of the Mongolian empire for a long period, Karakorum was founded in 1220 in the Orkhon valley. This ancient city was busy point on the route of the Silk Road. For me, it really drove home the incredible power of the Mongolian empire. 

The Mongolian empire

We visited the first Buddhist monastery in Mongolia. There was an archaeology dig at the site and I had previously read that much of the ancient city was yet to be found underground. Pretty exciting!

Erdene Zuu: the first Buddhist monastery in Mongolia

Erdene Zuu

Turtle rock formerly at the entrance of the ancient town

River stop along the way

Bimba wants blonde hair!

After the bumpiest day on the road yet, we arrived at the beautiful White Lake where we would spend the next few days. 

Terkhiin Tsagaan (White Lake)

Rob enjoying the view at Terkhiin Tsagaan 

~ TO BE CONTINUED~