Relaxation and regeneration at a ryokan

Arriving in Takayama we were both excited and a bit nervous about our first foray into Japanese bathing. We had read up on etiquette for the unique experience (for example see this tourism bureau site) and felt at least somewhat prepared to bathe naked with strangers! 

A number of friends recommend we visit a ryokan during our stay in Japan both for the bathing, meals and service. In fact, it made it into our list of travel dreams. A ryokan is a traditional style of accommodation that originates from the Edo period- a time of peace that meant travel was safe. A ryokan usually makes use of Japan's geothermal energy by way of an onsen (hot spring).

We chose Oyada Yamakyu which came highly recommended by our friends, Scott and Bianca. After hearing their descriptions, I was especially keen to try some of the local food.

A complimentary ryokan shuttle from the train station brought us up the hill to Oyada Yamakyu where we were shown to our room for a tea. After enjoying our tea and small snack, I wanted to get into my yukata and then the baths as soon as possible. 

Despite our pre-reading efforts I still was not one hundred per cent sure on the procedure. I was however certain that I would not try and balance my towel on my head (the traditional way) because I would likely drop it in the water. This would make it unclean and is definitely frowned upon. Rob and I went our separate ways, wishing each other an enjoyable bath! 

In our gear

It is important to shower before entering the water and before getting there I was a bit unclear on where the showers were located in relation to the baths. Luckily everything was very self-explanatory when I got there. The first area, a changing room, was well equipped with an amusing cartoon explaining the "do's and don't's". Finally mustering up the courage to take off my yakuta, I stepped into the shower and bathing area to find...absolutely noone! 

Not the actual cartoon from the ryokan but the general idea
Source: Travel Japan

Rob and I found each of our three baths a very peaceful and relaxing experience. Possibly me more than him because I always seemed to get the baths to myself! Although, it must be pointed out that it was Rob that apparently had an uncontrollable urge to sleep after his first bath. It wasn't long before he was knocked out on the tatami mats!

Hard work those baths

Both the men's bathing space and the women's had a large indoor bath and a smaller outdoor tub. As each space was different from the other, they swapped the men's and women's and midnight so you could experience both. The baths were lovely but too hot to last in there very long. 

Post-nap walk to the ryokan's garden in our outdoor coats

A highlight of our stay, as promised, was the amazing food. I enjoyed trying so many different foods and was surprised that I liked almost everything I was given. Rob did well to sample things he perhaps would not usually even look at. We were a bit slack with the photos but I did capture Rob enjoying dinner mid-meal at dinner and breakfast. The sake was also fantastic.

Huge variety at our ryokan dinner

Breakfast times

The Japanese are exceptional at utilising small spaces both efficiently and in an aesthetically pleasing manner! It is not often I rave about bathroom doors (and toilets for that matter!) but this was something special. We are really enjoying the often simplistic but beautiful designs inside Japanese rooms. Not long after dinner our "tea room" was converted into our bedroom, all ready for us after our second bath for the day. 

Tatami mats are our new best friends

The ryokan had great little touches like this laptop booth!

We had a great stay at Oyada Yamakyu and found it excellent value. It was certainly a unique and relaxing experience that left us feeling like the cleanest we had ever been!