Kyoto - Wash dashi-dashi masu*

Kyoto does not suffer from a lack of activities and things to see.  The beautiful streets you could walk up and down for hours, tucked away restaurants and alleyways in the geisha district were just lovely. 

A rainy night in the geisha district

Kyoto was a place we could relax a little, with a longer stay and a hostel with a common space that allowed us to spread out.  We had a number of gastronomic adventures, a cultural parade, some additional sake tasting, further onsen relaxation, haircuts, a cycle along the river and many visits to what I think Kyoto is best known for...it's shrines and temples.

I have to confess ignorance here. I don't know whether it is because I am missing the very detailed and fine points of Japanese culture, I had no one to explain to me the intricacies of Shintoism, whether I was "templed out" or if it was something else.  But I found the visits to many of the shrines around Kyoto a rather non-spiritual experience.  Often the focus was stolen from the architecture and enshrined deities to be placed on trinkets that will bear their superstitious buyers some form of luck, good business or fortune.  Notably at the Fushimi-Inari Taisha, for those after good business, it seems apparent that wishes only come true if you buy or sponsor noticable arches near the entrance, where everyone walks and will see it, rather than buying one at the top of the hill that most visitors will never make the effort to climb to.  

Fushimi-Inari entrance

Sometimes the temples felt like a fete or fair, but perhaps its good that they have an element of fun, just maybe the trinkets are not for us.

Putting the cynic in me to one side, the actual arches at the Fushimi Inari Taisha, its bamboo forest walk and the views from the top were amazing.  On our return, a father and daughter were practicing sword work in an amazing display.

Bamboo forest at Fushimi-Inari

Samurai battle

Coming down from Kuramadera, we enjoyed time in the nearby onsen - oh so relaxing. But for crying out loud, two things you do NOT do when at an onsen:

1. TAKE PHOTOGRAPHS - Kat was the star model in one lady's sneaky photo (which wasn't so sneaky).

2. BATHE WITH SHORTS - when it explicitly says that you are to bathe naked, THAT'S WHAT YOU DO!  One man hopped in wearing his board shorts, despite many signs instructing to the contrary, causing quite the kerfuffle. If you are feeling a bit prudish or shy, just don't go to an onsen.

The walk in the far more isolated Kuramadera Temple is invigorating, and where they provide you with a whacking/karate/walking stick (free of charge!).  Beautiful scenery and another grand view from the top.

Hiking at Kuramadera

Some of the many stairs at Kuramadera

A dragon font at Kuramadera

A man and his stick

Another visual and and certainly more spiritual experience was visiting the buddhist zen garden at Ryoan-ji.  And despite the fact that I am nearly quoting a guidebook word for word, it was wonderful to have the cacophony of  school children racing about drowned out by the silent emptiness and simplicity of the rock garden.  

Zen garden at Ryoan-ji

Tea Ceremony at Camellia

Similarly, witnessing a majestic Japanese tea ceremony was also a more relatable part of our time in Kyoto. 


We also took the opportunity to meet up with David, a colleague of my Mum's from a long time back, who took us out for a lovely dinner with his two sons where we discussed mutual acquaintances, politics and our future plans.

With so much to occupy our time, it went by in a flash, however from here the adventure continues, to Beijing and beyond!

*The title of this post is dedicated to the elevator at Ayado Gion hostel, which greeted us on each door opening with what we think was "Wash dashi-dashi masu"