Siem Reap, Cambodia

I really didn't know what to expect when heading to Siem Reap.  I knew it was coming and Kat had been before so I was kind of hoping to ride on her coat tails a bit.  What I really did not understand is just how big the temples are, how far away they are and how free you can be to explore them at your own pace.

We broke up our temple exploring over 3 days more or less geographically.  

Day one we spent visiting the temples and sights to the far north - so far away that we would not come back in the heat of the day.  We started the day with a very long tuk-tuk drive (with a hotel-based tuk-tuk driver, Mr Rhet) at Bantey Srei.  Bantey Srei was hard to really get a handle on as we only purchased a guide book after passing through, but there were enough other tourists to crowd the space and make me want to move on rather quickly.  I did spend enough time to be truly impressed how much detail Hindu people can fit into their temples and stone carvings, much like in Nepal, except that most of the wood carvings have been looted or rotted away.

A linga is a phallic-like rock, and at Nbal Spean ("The River of a Thousand Lingas"), thousands of them have been carved into the rock that forms the base of the river.  In the rainy season, the lingas along with other carvings of Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma are totally covered by running water. While I missed seeing this (oh how good it would have been for some rain) I really enjoyed the experience - both for the nice long walk to get there, but also because it was unlike anything I have seen before. Kat also really liked the pleasant hike and she had not visited Nbal Spean on her previous trip here.

The afternoon was eye-opening in a new way.  Cambodians, like the Vietnamese, have been through horrific experiences in recent decades through US/allied bombing, the disturbing rule of the Khmer Rouge, ongoing civil war and Vietnamese invasion.  Near to Bantey Srei is a Landmine Museum, opened by a man now known as Aki Ra, with a horrifying exposure to it all.  After experiences as a child soldier for the Khmer Rouge, and adult soldier for the Vietnamese army, and a man who never knew the name his parents gave him, he came to know land mines very well.  While both countries were trying to rebuild, he found his best way to participate was by disarming land mines, and the museum is a testament to his effort.  Everything in there (disarmed explosives in the tens of thousands) have been personally disarmed by him.  He has also started an orphanage and school there, specifically helping the victims of landmines and their families.  To support their efforts, please visit http://www.cambodianselfhelpdemining.org/ and give generously (they are a legitimate Cambodian-run NGO).  There are still millions of live explosives spread through the countryside of Cambodia on people's farms and in village's backyards.

Another remarkable thing we learned there was the world wide treaty on Land Mine use, to which China, Russia and the US are not signatories (they also happen to be the biggest producers).  Interestingly, according to the museum, the US' reasons for not signing is that there is no "North Korea exclusion-clause".  Apparently, the use of land mines in the "demilitarised zone" between North and South Korea is a key element in the US & South Korea's defence strategy, as the most effective means for preventing a North Korean invasion.  I've actually discovered that the US has agreed to the terms of the treaty with the exception of the Korean peninsula (South Korea is not a signatory for the reasons stated above, see wikipedia).

Taking it all in

Our second half of the day adventures were greatly improved by studying our new guide to the temples.  It certainly prevented us from "templing out" as you might be wont to do if you are just seeing without learning.

We finished off day one at Bantey Samrei, which was practically deserted.  I found the detail of the carvings remarkable, but the most memorable the image of the god Rama riding (Hanuman) while surrounded by the monkey army.  I think it was so memorable because of throwbacks to my childhood and the stories of the Journey to the West or better known as "Monkey Magic" - a great Japanese TV drama of the late 70's! (Sadly, I cannot find a youtube link).

With the heat in March being oppressive our plan was to explore temples in the morning and afternoon, while resting and swimming in our hotel's pool during the day.  This was such an important part of the plan that our hotel choice was based on it. However, we were to discover that our hotel didn't work like that and dis-satisfied with their strange method of calculating tuk-tuk fees, on day two we said goodbye to Mr Rhet. Kat also found it rather disappointing after the excellent driver she and her friends had in 2008...well apart from the tuk-tuk accident. On Day 2 we were to say hello to Mr Widget (or that's what we think his name was) whose services we acquired without the help of the hotel.  

Sunrise through the gate at Banteay Kdei
above Srah Srang

Our prior-to-sunrise departure took us to Srah Srang, a beautiful spot that was probably once a lovely balcony to an impressive temple overlooking a dam.  The sun's reflection on the water would have been impressive, could we see it through the haze. Whilst waiting for sunrise, Kat told me about plans to build a cafe amongst the ruins. Totally in support of such an idea, she let me go a little way with it before letting me know it was April 1st. 

Before long we thought it much more appealing to explore the nearby Buddhist temple Bantey Kdei while there were fewer other tourists about.  This was a far less grandiose, almost intentionally understated place that many tourists seem to overlook for the nearby and more famous Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat.  To top things off, as we left to the east at about 7am, we had a remarkable view of the now risen sun, above Srah Srang.

Following this, a visit to a place with probably the most shared photos of the region I have seen - Ta Prohm.  At this temple, silk-cotton trees (the husks of which we was used to float down the river in Chitwan) have taken over the walls and temples, such that it now looks like they are holding it together.  I can't help but wonder if this was a natural development, or whether someone intentionally did this.

One of Kat's favourite temples

Mr Widget seemed enthusiastic about our midday break, because it meant that he could collect his wife and go an get a scan done (she's pregnant) before picking us up again in the afternoon.  

The afternoon we used to explore Angkor Thom, the grand Elephant Terrace, and the well-famous Bayon "face-temple".  Although these ancient Khmer temples were built over a period of about 4 centuries (from 9th to 13th) - while the Christians in the west were off crusading - they were all made within a rather small area.  Each king trying to outdo the efforts of another even if those efforts were actually borne by their poor subjects.  

Hard-working elephants eternally uprooting lotus plants

On the last day, we were headed to where everyone heads at some point.  Sunrise at the famous Angkor Wat.  Except, that Mr Widget didn't show up.  We truly hope that he and his wife are OK, but we had no way to get in touch.  Instead, we had to do a last minute shuffle (at 5.30am) and find a new driver, enter Mr Widget 2 - he actually had the same name, we didn't just call him "number 2"! 

As Kat had told me, sunrise and sunsets at the temples are often hazy - early mornings are more about missing the heat of the day than seeing a sunrise. sometimes, its just best to get a photo of a beautiful woman instead.  

Kat at the famous Angkor Wat

Churning for eternal life

Our particular day at Ankor Wat was far too hazy and there were too many people eager to step into our carefully selected shot, so we focused more on exploration.  The bas-reliefs on the south side of Angkor Wat really were amazing, but further improved by our trusty guidebook.  Without that, or a guide to explain them to you, you could be forgiven for thinking of them as repetitive images of Vishnu.  I think the great highlight was the "Stirring of the Ocean of Milk", a great story that I think ties nicely in with that of the Rainbow Serpent.

A second, perhaps grander (although not as well preserved), version of the
Stirring of the Ocean of Milk

Mr Widget 2 was only too happy to give us a ride out to the airport for a few extra dollars, where a storm was brewing before our flight to Bangkok.  It was certainly a packed three days, but we really enjoyed it, I'm glad Kat was willing to come a second time.

Tips for the temples:

• Don't be a fool, climbing around the temples in the middle of the day is not fun - especially in March.
• We stayed at the Lotus Lodge Villa - I recommend you don't.  There's not one thing that leads me to say this, but the combination of a thousand tiny things (to which they have not seen fit to respond to).  I've received better service for $4/night at a guest house.
• Get a guide book dedicated to the temples - it's worth the investment.
• Don't try to do too much - take your time.

A happy face at Bayon

Kathmandu

Differences noticed by Rob

Coming back to Kathmandu was a lot like coming home, but to a place where all the chairs have been moved around a little bit.  The first place I could notice a change was at the airport, where we did not have to battle to keep hold of our bags, find an ATM (admittedly the ATM was either out of money or without power - so not much has changed there).  My Nepali language skills were extremely rusty but I managed to convey to our driver that I wasn't a "regular" tourist, I had actually lived here before (I think this was more important to me than to him).

Our ride to our hotel was punctuated by me attesting to Kat "I used to work there", "wait, I have no idea where we are" to "oh, now I know" to "I don't remember there being this much/this little traffic".  Truly, I spent that ride taking in the smells, the sounds and the feeling of being back in Nepal.

Taxis - don't pull the lever

Before long I showed Kat along the road, eager to revisit Lazimpat (my old neighbourhood) and introduce her to my friend Gunga who owns a teashop there, and even hopefully to eat at Katherine (Ensler's) and my old Lazimpatian haunt the "LGC" (Lazimpat Gallery Cafe).  The whole area has changed a great deal and I could not even identify where the LGC used to be.  What used to be a bustling 2 lane main road with a giant hole in place of a sewerage access point is now what appears to be a 4 lane highway through to the northern part of the ring road.  The businesses on either side are shiny and even flashy, with bakeries sporting espresso machines and fancy new signs.  The road down to the Radisson and Katherine's old house is also newly paved.  My old apartment building still seems to exist, but hidden behind a development or two that initially led me to believe it had been knocked down. There was no trace of the old local rubbish tip where garbage was left for up to a week until magically carried away in the dark of night.

The longer we spent there, the faster the Nepali words and inflections came back to me, it is remarkable how much more comfortable I felt in Nepal because I had some of the language skills to navigate the place, as compared with Malaysia or Vietnam.  With Malaysia, there's a tendency to feel pretty comfortable because most things and people behave the way an Australian would probably expect them to and for a large part, you can fall back on English.  In Nepal, even when there is a good smattering of English, having a phrase here or there can really turn things in your favour (with the exception of the bike incident). 

Politically, not a great deal has changed, at least on the surface.  There is no constitution, what was to be the priority of government outlined during my time there.  The people in many regions are still plagues by power outages and a lack of essential infrastructure.  However, change moves slowly, and having had 7 years away, you can see some things here and there that give you hope.  Street kids were not to be seen anywhere we went in Kathmandu - I'm not sure whether this is a good or bad thing, as they had to go somewhere...

Mr Dahal (also known as "Prachanda the Fierce") is still yelling and shouting whenever you turn on the TV.  I have no doubt that his popularity has waned in the years since I left.  Having fought and "won" an insurgency that he started in 1996, he rose to power while abolishing the monarchy with astounding popularity (August 2008) and then gave it up in a tantrum (May 2009), all in the time I lived there.  All my memories of seeing him or hearing about him were of a man with strong conviction but a fierce temper; although he is no longer Prime Minister, it seems both are still with him.

Kat's first impressions
It was great to see some of the places Rob had told me so much about. (Even if everywhere we walked was either half or double as long as Rob remembered!) I enjoyed seeing him excited at being back and was enthusiastic about putting a picture to the stories I had heard.  I saw where his regular hole-in-the-wall store was that he bought eggs and some of his old hang-outs. Apart from this my first impression of Nepal was not wholly positive. Kathmandu airport is a strange, old place and the Nepali customs man was not altogether welcoming. Then out on the street, the dust and air pollution really irritated my nose at first. Maybe I cannot remember but I did not feel like that in New Delhi, India, despite the fact I think they are comparable in this regard. 

What I did like was mo mo's (actually having them in Nepal!) and one of our first walks through Kathmandu valley to Swayambunath temple. Although the view from the temple was hazy, it was a beautiful structure and nice to watch people doing their morning rituals up there, whether it be prayer, exercises, tea or singing. People were, as always, feeding the monkeys and the puppies also seemed to be 'looked after' in Nepal. Overall it was a good first couple of days before we headed off the mountains, probably my preferred habitat! 

Swayambunath

Dogs dreaming of biscuits at Swayambunath (just wait until they wake up!)

Catching up with/meeting Rob's friends

Shivaratri, Durbar Square and Pashupatinath 

We visited Kathmandu's famous Durbar Square on Maha Shivaratri (Hindu festival celebrating Shiva and the day he married). Krishna had explained that it is a day Nepali Hindu's wish for a good husband or wife (or that they remain good). It was an excellent day to visit Durbar Square because it was alive with people and colour. We sat there for a fair while watching as people queued for the temples, prayed and made offerings. A marching band, an army brigade, matching outfits (not just couples), children playing and the distinctive architecture captured our attention for quite some time. 

We visited the Royal Palace and saw endless exhibits about the last King of Nepal. Some of it was really interesting (parts that showed what was happening in Nepal at the time) and some of it weird (a fake aquarium that looked like a primary school diorama and was apparently owned by King). In the end it got very repetitive as it contained every picture taken of the King, his coin collection, his book collection, etc, etc. This mostly shows how important a figure he is in Nepal, but for us a small portion of the museum was enough. It was great climbing up the tower and looking down at views of Kathmandu. 

Later that evening we attempted to visit Pashupatinath, one of the most sacred temples in Nepal. We barely made it within cooee of the temple. The best we could hope for is to join the masses walking near the temple and watching others in a ginormous queue. (One of the most formal queues ever to grace the city!) Oh and we also paid an absurd price for fairy floss due to the tourist tax (The first guy tried to sell the tiniest fairy floss to us for 300 rupees! That is around AUD$4. We still paid probably 3 times the locals at about AUD$1, which of course was absolutely fine and completely worth every cent!) Even though we did not get to see the temple, it was nice being amongst the festivity. 

One of the day's many colourful queues

Shivaratri at Durbar Square

For sale - outside the temple

Nescafe lady: Why limit such things to sporting events?

Kala Bhairab - god of destruction at Durbar Square 

He stood here for ages

Army marching through Durbar Square

Marching band

Garden of Dreams
A well-known retreat from the dusty streets of Kathmandu is the Garden of Dreams, a walled European style garden with fountains, pavilions and flower beds. Once owned privately, the garden was restored by the Austrian government from the beginning of this millennium. Having paid the entry of Rs. 200 per person (for Non-Nepali), you can visit the cafe or enjoy the atmosphere from the benches or pillows on the grass. We enjoyed a morning and lunch here and it was a nice change of pace.

A retreat from the city: Garden of Dreams

Boudhanath
A highlight of our time in Kathmandu was visiting Boudhanath, one of the largest stupas in the world. Rob has visited a few times previously but was keen to go back. We both enjoyed the sensation of walking around the stupa clockwise with a mass of people. (If you walk anti-clockwise you do not gain any merit and also generate negative karma.) The rhythm and movement of the uniform walking and the spinning of prayer wheels made it quite peaceful. It almost became hard to stop walking around. Eventually we stopped for a rooftop tea break and attempted to catch a sunset. (We didn't have must luck on this front whilst in Nepal unfortunately.) 

Boudhanath

Sea of people moving with the current

Hostel we liked: Sister's Guesthouse
We stayed in a few hostels in Kathmandu over the month. Our last one was easily the best because the owner, Biman-Didi, was friendly, welcoming and helpful, the food was great, the wifi and hot water were fairly good and the rooftop was good place to hang out or do yoga. It was right in the thick of Thamel so expect some noise, but if you can handle this, it was a winner. It is also one place you can get the tongba (warm Tibetan beer). One of the only beers I have ever enjoyed. When we left, Biman-Didi presented us with a khata (traditional Tibetan Buddhist scarves) that give you good luck for travelling. 

Dinner with Krishna
Our trekking guide, Krishna, had kindly invited us to dinner with his family towards the end of our stay in Nepal. He lives with his brother, sister-in-law, sister and baby niece. It was great to meet them all and we felt lucky to be invited into their home. His sister-in-law and sister cooked us a delicious dahl baht but did not eat with us and we were already home by 7:30pm!