TOUR DE COFFEE: Wakey uppy juice, A cup of the good stuff!

Today, this hilarious video motivated me to get around to writing a post on coffee. 

“I'm trying to de-wank my coffee so i'll just have an International Roast. You know that powdery, instant coffee that comes in a big white tin." Kitty Flanagan on ABC's The Weekly


Currently Rob and I are enjoying coffee in Santander. One reason we are glad we chose to spend a month here, is they have a great cafe culture. It came at a time when we were really wishing we could walk down the street and simply "be" at a Melbourne cafe, even a snobby one! 

Before leaving for our trip I had a GRAND PLAN to do away with coffee for a year. Or, at least, to reduce my reliance on my morning coffee. 

This failed miserably. 


Leading up to our adventure was a very busy period that involved goodbyes (over coffee), alertness to move/sell/pack (cue caffeine), Christmas and New Years (hourly offers of coffee) and the grand event of a wedding weekend (a certain coffee scenario). 

Gilmore girls coffee-ism

It wasn't just that I kept my coffee habit way into the New Year as we inched closer to our departure date, but also that before we knew it, we were in Vietnam. The cafe culture in Vietnam is really like no other. I would live to take this moment to lay almost all of the blame the country for continuing my reliance on coffee! (This is probably more a compliment than anything else.)

...and so began our 

TOUR OF COFFEE!

Our coffee and cafe passion/habit has created a huge dent in our budget but I think it has been worth it. It is has been truly fascinating seeing just how different coffee is perceived in different places and how variable the cafe experience can be. We have found it surprisingly hard to predict when a "good" coffee will be served and when it won't. Our tastes have also evolved and we have realised just how much of a Melbourne-centric view of what makes a coffee good. 

Malaysia
Our first destination is certainly more hazy in my mind than other places. Adjusting to the humidity, trying not to get lost in our first country and still faintly clinging onto the notion of giving up the drink, coffee was not top-of-mind in Malaysia. I have previously tried the infamous Kopi Luwak (coffee cherries eaten and defaecated by a civet) which is mainly found in Indonesia but I also spotted it in Malaysia and Vietnam.

In Kuala Lumpur we did try something new (and hideously over-priced even by Melbourne standards!): coffee ice cubes that melt as you add hot milk.

Not really worth it!

Nepal
Nepal, naturally, was more of a place to sample tea. Outside of the touristy areas, cafes serving espresso coffee are scarce. Since Rob was last there in 2009, the expansion of cafes is astronomical because coffee machines now exist. Well, they might have been there but he didn't notice because it would not have occurred to him to buy a latte back then!

The tourist cafes ranged dramatically and you could not rely on first impressions! Of course, it is pretty amazing, and kind of outrageous I suppose, that a country battling with massive weather challenges, poverty, vast electricity restrictions and a range of other issues has any of these cafes at all. Our best coffee was probably at Himalayan Java (the Starbucks of Nepal) in Thamel.

Latte art! 

Lady selling Nescafes in Durbar Square

Cambodia 

Cambodia was really more about continuing my love affair with mango shakes/juice/smoothies but we did sample a few lattes. Importantly, we got the teeniest cutest take-away coffee you have ever seen!

Baby coffee for the bus

Phnom Penh latte

Vietnam's Ca Phe
Ca phe is serious business in Vietnam. Having spent a month in Ho Chi Minh, we tried to sample the dizzying array of styles. The big Vietnamese coffee chain, Trung Nguyen Coffee, has a multiple page coffee menu offering everything under the sun. Trung Nguyen are everywhere but that doesn't mean there aren't a multitude of other cafes. (Quite like Melbourne!) 

Rob and Ann at ca phe time!

What initially makes the cafe experience in Vietnamese unique is that often the coffee is brewed slowly at your table using a gravity drip system. Even at the most basic cafes your coffee choice involved numerous factors: black, white, hot, cold, ice cubes, milk, condensed milk, ice cream, etc. The beans are from everywhere, including Vietnam. It took us awhile to get our heads around the concept of having ice with a hot beverage. The best thing about the cafe culture in Vietnam is also probably the highlight of many aspects of the country: the community atmosphere on the streets.   

We actually failed to take many photos of our coffee experiences but I did capture Rob having coffee on the Mekong so that's something! 

Ca phe sau on the Mekong!

French Quarter cafe in Hanoi (note the mopeds outside)

China
Finding ourselves in another country famous for its tea and tea rituals, we didn't have many expectations for China. However, we had recently left Vietnam so caffeine was not optional at this point! We got by with instant and 3-in-1 packets (better than nothing!) for much of the time. When we splashed out on a tourist coffee (priced as such), it was hit-or-miss. This was kind of a let-down as when we did buy it, we saw it as a luxury. 

Drinking Beijing yoghurt was really a better
idea! (On the street so you could recycle the jar.)

Not all coffee was targeted at tourists. We have to give an honourable mention to the Guang Zhou cafe: One Dollar Coffee which did not, in fact, provide $1 coffee. It did provide a huge coffee that I would not recommend. 

Looks a lot like Starbucks!

In Beijing, Sarah, Rob and I visited a cafe with a great set-up overlooking a garden. It would have fit right in at home. When we were there it was absolutely dead and I wonder how viable it will be into the future.

Japan
Oh Japan! ...I don't want to say anything bad about you...still....months down the track and many km's down the road. However, coffee is not always your strong suit. A bit unfair to say when tea is obviously the priority. (Viewing a tea ceremony in Kyoto was a beautiful, tranquil experience.) 

In an exception to the rule, in Kyoto I searched the net for a cafe with good coffee being the sole criteria. I came across a cafe with coffee that an Australian tourist promised would transport me to Melbourne*. Vermillion Espresso Bar almost got there! Rob was even confident enough to order a soy latte. This has been extremely rare!

Kyoto for coffee

Kat's sideways latte

Rob's sideways SOY latte

* Whilst writing this post I found out that the barristas/owners lived in Melbourne for many years. They say that they drew their inspiration for the cafe from Melbourne. Uh huh! 


Mongolia
We didn't have high expectations for Mongolia but inside the capital we were most pleasantly surprised. Ullan Bataar seemed to have its own unique style of cafe culture going on. Possibly it is due to the boom times of recent years, but whatever the reason, we benefited. In UB we did a fair bit of planning and I did some work so it was great to have a plethora of cafes to choose from each day! We even had a Luke's! (For those not in the know: "LUKE'S" a homey cafe; your local; the place you want to be in the morning for your cup of joe! Origin: Gilmore Girls)

This was not the best UB had to offer but not too bad!

Finland
Excited to be entering a new continent full of coffee potential, but wary of the Northern Euro price tag, Rob and I found ourselves at our first European stop: Helsinki. Initially bursting with joy at the sight of outdoor cafes and European squares, I could hardly contain myself. Then I found the Finnish knew the way to my heart: a small chocolate on my coffee saucer.

Danger: Fairly consistent chocolate
accompaniment! Pretty good coffee.

Bearded Rob and Oliver at Robert's Coffee
Chain Cafe- they were everywhere!

You might think that was the end of it. That once in Europe life was a coffee dream. No, not quite! You see, I do prefer a cafe latte and, obviously, milk isn't really the way in most of Europe. So I have been switching it up, an espresso here, a cafe latte there. Apparently there is a Parisian cafe that serves Flat White's now! 

Ireland
During our road trip of Ireland we found the coffee to vary greatly. Our first Irish coffee (actually invented for tourists apparently) was absolutely horrible. Not at all what Mum had remembered from the past. Luckily those that followed were better. 

The best part coffee-wise in Ireland for me was that Mum gave Rob and I Keep Cups! (From an Australian company but sold in Dublin!) They have been brilliant, especially whilst we were on the road in Ireland and then on our various camping expeditions.

On the "interesting" side...

Keep cup coffee!

Mum with her Irish coffee!

Scotland
Still flummoxed at my discovery that "Lemon, lime and bitters" is not a drink found commonly in the UK (or Ireland) but actually a beverage of Australia invention, I took awhile to assess the coffee landscape in Scotland! When I did, I found some great coffees and some average ones. 

One of the better coffees was at Loch Lomond at Cafe Street Mocha or maybe I was influenced by the clever handle at the entrance!

Loved this door handle 

Latte art! A side of toffee!

The Netherlands
We were welcomed to the Netherlands by a sunny street-side picnic lunch and coffee with my friend Ilir and his housemate, Jackie. A fantastic way to kick off our time in a beautiful country....until Jackie mentioned that he had his coffee with milk- "the WEAK way". Thus we were welcomed to mainland Europe! Really, it was about this time that I put a bit of extra effort into embracing the espresso. (Rob was ahead of me on this one!) Regardless, I did have some good lattes in the Netherlands and not much beats a coffee on a pretty canal in Utrecht.

A cycling pit-stop for coffee

Mini stroop waffle!

Coffee along the canal

France
During our first half of our short time in France we were spoilt by relatives, in all ways including coffee! We weren't in France long enough to visit a huge amount of cafes however, given the fact that we sought out the French quarters in many other cities does give some indication of what we expect from French cafes. (Refer to Vietnam above for example.) That said, we had an absolutely disgusting coffee in Montmartre!  

In Bordeaux we visited the Medoc region for a chateau tour. Apart from the wine tastings we were presented with a beautiful picnic that included a great coffee and the regions celebrated Caneles de Bordeaux. 

Bordeaux style

Spain
So far Spain is right up there in the coffee stakes! Not only is the espresso good but they make a great cafe con leche- finally I've hit the jackpot. The price tag is also much more condusive with our coffee habits. So far my favourite cafe is el museo de la musica which perhaps doesn't really sound like a cafe at all. I actually want to eat here at some point.

First coffee in Santander

"TAKE-AWAY" POINTS

• You really can't really generalise about a country's coffee: surprises abound
• Noone seems to serve coffees in latte glasses like at home! 
• We are coffee snobs...but only a little bit. Nothing gets in the way of us and caffeine, even a lack of latte art or a 3-in-1 packet.
• Coffee is an adventure!

Sunset and Sunrise Mission 2015! (Part 1)

I thought it would be nice to have a Sunset and Sunrise Mission for the year. (Okay, if I am honest, it was initially just a Sunset Mission but I thought I'd make it more enjoyable/easier.) The aim is to see a sunrise or sunset in every country we visit. Here is our progress so far:

Malaysia
We have already blogged on our failed attempt at finding a sunset spot in Kuala Lumpur, and we really did not have many other tried at it. Luckily, on our trip to Pulau Selingan we caught the below sunset before we were ushered off the beach in case the turtles arrived to hatch. It was not spectacular but at least we have one to show. (And we will always remember Rob hacking at a coconut for half an hour while I did laps on the sand!)

Pulau Selingan

Nepal 
Nepal likes to turn on the fog or up the pollution in time for sunset. From Kathmandu you cannot see much at all and Pokhara sunset was rather disappointing. We enjoyed a beautiful sunrise at Poon hill but I really like this shot from Chitwan National Park. (Taken around the time Rob was looking for a brown crack.) 

Elephant in a Chitwan sunset

Vietnam
Phu Quoc purportedly provides the best sunsets in Vietnam. Whilst we did enjoy saying goodbye to the sun from the beach with cocktails there, we think our Mekong sunset took the cake for Vietnam:

Phu Quoc March sunset

Mekong fishing village

Cambodia
As it was severely hot in Siem Reap, we got up before dawn and rested during the middle part of the day. On our second morning at the temples we visited Banteay Kdei and Srah Srang and I captured this couple a bit after sunrise. 

Sunrise from Banteay Kdei looking towards Srah Srang

On our third day at the temples we spent some time trying to capture the beauty of Angkor Wat. 

Angkor Wat

Hopefully there are more sunsets and sunrises in our future- stay tuned!

Siem Reap, Cambodia

I really didn't know what to expect when heading to Siem Reap.  I knew it was coming and Kat had been before so I was kind of hoping to ride on her coat tails a bit.  What I really did not understand is just how big the temples are, how far away they are and how free you can be to explore them at your own pace.

We broke up our temple exploring over 3 days more or less geographically.  

Day one we spent visiting the temples and sights to the far north - so far away that we would not come back in the heat of the day.  We started the day with a very long tuk-tuk drive (with a hotel-based tuk-tuk driver, Mr Rhet) at Bantey Srei.  Bantey Srei was hard to really get a handle on as we only purchased a guide book after passing through, but there were enough other tourists to crowd the space and make me want to move on rather quickly.  I did spend enough time to be truly impressed how much detail Hindu people can fit into their temples and stone carvings, much like in Nepal, except that most of the wood carvings have been looted or rotted away.

A linga is a phallic-like rock, and at Nbal Spean ("The River of a Thousand Lingas"), thousands of them have been carved into the rock that forms the base of the river.  In the rainy season, the lingas along with other carvings of Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma are totally covered by running water. While I missed seeing this (oh how good it would have been for some rain) I really enjoyed the experience - both for the nice long walk to get there, but also because it was unlike anything I have seen before. Kat also really liked the pleasant hike and she had not visited Nbal Spean on her previous trip here.

The afternoon was eye-opening in a new way.  Cambodians, like the Vietnamese, have been through horrific experiences in recent decades through US/allied bombing, the disturbing rule of the Khmer Rouge, ongoing civil war and Vietnamese invasion.  Near to Bantey Srei is a Landmine Museum, opened by a man now known as Aki Ra, with a horrifying exposure to it all.  After experiences as a child soldier for the Khmer Rouge, and adult soldier for the Vietnamese army, and a man who never knew the name his parents gave him, he came to know land mines very well.  While both countries were trying to rebuild, he found his best way to participate was by disarming land mines, and the museum is a testament to his effort.  Everything in there (disarmed explosives in the tens of thousands) have been personally disarmed by him.  He has also started an orphanage and school there, specifically helping the victims of landmines and their families.  To support their efforts, please visit http://www.cambodianselfhelpdemining.org/ and give generously (they are a legitimate Cambodian-run NGO).  There are still millions of live explosives spread through the countryside of Cambodia on people's farms and in village's backyards.

Another remarkable thing we learned there was the world wide treaty on Land Mine use, to which China, Russia and the US are not signatories (they also happen to be the biggest producers).  Interestingly, according to the museum, the US' reasons for not signing is that there is no "North Korea exclusion-clause".  Apparently, the use of land mines in the "demilitarised zone" between North and South Korea is a key element in the US & South Korea's defence strategy, as the most effective means for preventing a North Korean invasion.  I've actually discovered that the US has agreed to the terms of the treaty with the exception of the Korean peninsula (South Korea is not a signatory for the reasons stated above, see wikipedia).

Taking it all in

Our second half of the day adventures were greatly improved by studying our new guide to the temples.  It certainly prevented us from "templing out" as you might be wont to do if you are just seeing without learning.

We finished off day one at Bantey Samrei, which was practically deserted.  I found the detail of the carvings remarkable, but the most memorable the image of the god Rama riding (Hanuman) while surrounded by the monkey army.  I think it was so memorable because of throwbacks to my childhood and the stories of the Journey to the West or better known as "Monkey Magic" - a great Japanese TV drama of the late 70's! (Sadly, I cannot find a youtube link).

With the heat in March being oppressive our plan was to explore temples in the morning and afternoon, while resting and swimming in our hotel's pool during the day.  This was such an important part of the plan that our hotel choice was based on it. However, we were to discover that our hotel didn't work like that and dis-satisfied with their strange method of calculating tuk-tuk fees, on day two we said goodbye to Mr Rhet. Kat also found it rather disappointing after the excellent driver she and her friends had in 2008...well apart from the tuk-tuk accident. On Day 2 we were to say hello to Mr Widget (or that's what we think his name was) whose services we acquired without the help of the hotel.  

Sunrise through the gate at Banteay Kdei
above Srah Srang

Our prior-to-sunrise departure took us to Srah Srang, a beautiful spot that was probably once a lovely balcony to an impressive temple overlooking a dam.  The sun's reflection on the water would have been impressive, could we see it through the haze. Whilst waiting for sunrise, Kat told me about plans to build a cafe amongst the ruins. Totally in support of such an idea, she let me go a little way with it before letting me know it was April 1st. 

Before long we thought it much more appealing to explore the nearby Buddhist temple Bantey Kdei while there were fewer other tourists about.  This was a far less grandiose, almost intentionally understated place that many tourists seem to overlook for the nearby and more famous Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat.  To top things off, as we left to the east at about 7am, we had a remarkable view of the now risen sun, above Srah Srang.

Following this, a visit to a place with probably the most shared photos of the region I have seen - Ta Prohm.  At this temple, silk-cotton trees (the husks of which we was used to float down the river in Chitwan) have taken over the walls and temples, such that it now looks like they are holding it together.  I can't help but wonder if this was a natural development, or whether someone intentionally did this.

One of Kat's favourite temples

Mr Widget seemed enthusiastic about our midday break, because it meant that he could collect his wife and go an get a scan done (she's pregnant) before picking us up again in the afternoon.  

The afternoon we used to explore Angkor Thom, the grand Elephant Terrace, and the well-famous Bayon "face-temple".  Although these ancient Khmer temples were built over a period of about 4 centuries (from 9th to 13th) - while the Christians in the west were off crusading - they were all made within a rather small area.  Each king trying to outdo the efforts of another even if those efforts were actually borne by their poor subjects.  

Hard-working elephants eternally uprooting lotus plants

On the last day, we were headed to where everyone heads at some point.  Sunrise at the famous Angkor Wat.  Except, that Mr Widget didn't show up.  We truly hope that he and his wife are OK, but we had no way to get in touch.  Instead, we had to do a last minute shuffle (at 5.30am) and find a new driver, enter Mr Widget 2 - he actually had the same name, we didn't just call him "number 2"! 

As Kat had told me, sunrise and sunsets at the temples are often hazy - early mornings are more about missing the heat of the day than seeing a sunrise. sometimes, its just best to get a photo of a beautiful woman instead.  

Kat at the famous Angkor Wat

Churning for eternal life

Our particular day at Ankor Wat was far too hazy and there were too many people eager to step into our carefully selected shot, so we focused more on exploration.  The bas-reliefs on the south side of Angkor Wat really were amazing, but further improved by our trusty guidebook.  Without that, or a guide to explain them to you, you could be forgiven for thinking of them as repetitive images of Vishnu.  I think the great highlight was the "Stirring of the Ocean of Milk", a great story that I think ties nicely in with that of the Rainbow Serpent.

A second, perhaps grander (although not as well preserved), version of the
Stirring of the Ocean of Milk

Mr Widget 2 was only too happy to give us a ride out to the airport for a few extra dollars, where a storm was brewing before our flight to Bangkok.  It was certainly a packed three days, but we really enjoyed it, I'm glad Kat was willing to come a second time.

Tips for the temples:

• Don't be a fool, climbing around the temples in the middle of the day is not fun - especially in March.
• We stayed at the Lotus Lodge Villa - I recommend you don't.  There's not one thing that leads me to say this, but the combination of a thousand tiny things (to which they have not seen fit to respond to).  I've received better service for $4/night at a guest house.
• Get a guide book dedicated to the temples - it's worth the investment.
• Don't try to do too much - take your time.

A happy face at Bayon

S-21 Prison, Phnom Penh

Cambodians, like the Vietnamese, have been through horrific experiences in recent decades through US/allied bombing, the disturbing rule of the Khmer Rouge, ongoing civil war, Vietnamese invasion and the nasty vestiges of war.  The eastern part of the country was heavily mined to restrict the movements of the Vietcong and the process of mining continued throughtout multiple regimes, as a way to maim but not always kill enemy combatants. The 'logic' behind this is that injuring a soldier takes two  enemy combatants out of action but killing only takes one.

Somehow while growing up, I either never learned or somehow blocked my mind to these tragedies.  When I did hear of Pol Pot, I imagined some far off dictator, some regime in South America, something that happened long ago.  But the truth is so much closer in time and geography.  Some of these heinous crimes occurred before I was born, but much of it so close that people on the street, little older than me must have suffered through the experience in one way or another, and many of those much older could have been directly involved with them, as perpetrator or victim.

S-21 Prison is actually a school that was used as a prison and torture facility after the Khmer Rouge came to power (1975) and drove most people from the cities to the fields.  Their brand of communism (like many others I suppose) was the belief that labouring in the fields was a glorious pursuit and that intellectuals and artists were a threat to the regime.  People would be brought here for "re-education" or "re-training" if they were not of use in their prior role, if they were somehow a threat to someone in power, or if they were suspected of being a CIA spy (or perhaps that last one was just used as a way to getting rid of people the Khmer Rouge didn't want around).  People were whipped, drowned, electrocuted, starved and executed within the walls of this school.  If they did survive the prison, many were taken out to the killing fields to be executed.

In one remarkable room, there was a section dedicated to a visit, in the late 70's, of a Swedish journalist who came as one of Pol Pot's guests to Cambodia, and left writing about what a glorious place Cambodia was.  He wrote about a classless agricultural communist state could thrive. He now writes about how horribly wrong he was, how ridiculous it seems that the wool had been pulled over his eyes, with he a willing participant. None of the others in his party have similarly stated these revelations. Kat found this display especially fascinating as it was a new addition to since her visit in 2008. It certainly raised questions as to whether we are turning a blind eye to the various conflicts or dictatorships around the world at the moment.

During our visit, we saw a documentary, where two of the only seven known survivors of the camp told of their experience, along with a "prison guard" who told of his role at the prison, and at being forced to murder someone at the killing fields to prove that he was an "absolute" follower.

Now setup as a quasi-museum to expose these crimes for what they were, a visit here is a sad, soul-crushing experience, leaving you to (again) wonder how humans can be capable of such atrocities.  Even after being driven out by the Vietnamese invasion in the late 70's, the Khmer Rouge continued a guerilla war to 1991. Disturbingly, the court cases against men like Pol Pot and his cadres have only recently commenced, with the man himself dying in 1998, before justice was done.

Stories we have read and seen are reflective of tragedies elsewhere where people under a dictatorship have been forced to do horrendous things to save loved ones or themselves. It is impossible to know what lengths one would go to in these circumstances. Although evidence perhaps points to the contrary, one would hope we as humans can learn from the devastation of war or turning a blind eye to our neighbouring countries and avoid any sort of repetition of these events. Cambodia is showing tremendous strength in rebuilding their communities with such fresh memories and resulting (and ongoing) pain of a truly horrifying time.

Hello! Sue sdei! Where do you go? I don’t know!

Hashing in Phnom Penh

Rob has been talking about the Himalayan Hash House Harriers since the day I met him. Hash House Harriers is an international group of non-competitive social running clubs. Hashing involves following a path laid out by a Hare through all sorts of obstacles. Traditionally it is paired with the drinking of beer, which I less eagerly anticipated! 

 During Rob’s year in Nepal he was a regular Hasher. We had hoped to do a hash in Kathmandu whilst we were there but the stars did not align and we were not there on a Sunday (hash day). We vowed to look out for future opportunities and Phnom Penh turned out to be the city to host us!

We invited Tim (who we had been staying with in Ho Chi Minh and whose travel dates coincided with our stay in Phnom Penh) to join us. It was his first Hash too which meant we initially followed-the-leader rather than the white spray-paint that indicated the path. It also meant we were required to stand in the middle of the circle during the drinking songs and the end of the hash.

The hash got off to a very slow start. Meeting at the deserted train-station of Phnom Penh we were to wait a good hour before hopping on a cattle truck that took us to the ferry. Our hash was to be out in the country-side and after reboarding the cattle truck on the other side of the river, a few wrong turns, several tree branches in people’s faces, numerous bumps in the road and many looks of disbelief from locals, we arrived at our starting point: a primary school.

Tim and I on the way to our first hash

Our group was diverse, consisting of expats (or immigrants), locals and tourists aged from 25-60 with a wide range of backgrounds. Some were walkers (one of them showed up in dress shoes but everyone was relieved he had sneakers in his bag) and others ran. Our route involved rice paddies, temples, someone’s backyard, a boat crossing, roads and alleyways. Farmers stared at us; probably wondering why we weren’t in our hammocks at this time of day. I used my miniscule amount of Khmer to greet a farmer and it turned into a little rhyme:

Sue sdei!

Hello!

Where do you go?

I don’t know!

It must be very odd to find foreigners running in your fields looking like they are on a mission but realising they actually do not have the faintest idea where they are headed! 

The first crossing of the hash

Serenity

What are you people doing?

We passed through villages with many friendly waves and giggles from children. Towards the end it felt like we were finishing a marathon with the reception we got. Children waved tree branches and cheered and I felt like I should be more exhausted than I was! Don’t get me wrong, though it wasn’t a marathon; it was certainly a challenge. It was a very hot day and it has been awhile since I ran at all, let alone on uneven trails in scorching sun!

Marathon crowd :P

Smiley kids

Take my photo!

Taking a look at the previous photo

Once we reached our final destination the drinks were handed around and we formed a ceremonious circle. I opted for an electrolyte drink, until I was pulled in the circle and given a cup of beer. It felt rude not to take part. If someone from around the circle sat down on the ground they would be forced to sit on a huge ice cube in the centre. Rob had mouthed off early so also found himself in the middle of the circle with a pipe around his arm. His drink was a bit harder to swallow.

Rob's challenge, Tim and my beer that tasted like...beer

Circle time went on a bit too long for me with far more drinking songs than you can poke a stick at. We had told poor Steph (Tim’s wife) that we would be back before dinner but it was going to be much later by the time we took the journey back to Phnom Penh. Nevertheless, I enjoyed being surround by the local kids playing as the sun went down. 

Kids, probably wondering what one earth we were doing

We hope to do more hashing in other places this year and would recommend it to other travellers. It is a great experience, incorporates some exercise and the costs are minimal (US$5 in Phnom Penh). Visit the PP site here!

Ready to hash another day!